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Forum Category: PT Boats of WWII
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Forum Name: PT Boats - General
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Topic: Italeri 1/35 PT-105 Build - David Waples
http://www.ptboatforum.com/cgi-bin/MB2/netboardr.cgi?cid=101&fid=102&tid=3145



Okay, I've started my build. The first step is to correct the hull. The Italeri hull is flat on the deck from bow to stern. It's also flat across the deck. Doing some measurements from Al Ross' 1/48 scale drawings I found the Italeri hull to be very close with the exception of the deck lines. The challenge is to correct the hull so that it visually represents the Elco hull as close as possible.

Measuring the hull against the drawings the stern is a little short so I'll be adding plastic to build it up slightly. The nose of the bow is a little too tall relative to the drawing so I will sanding the nose down to the correct shape.

Italeri hull laying flat on my workbench:

[IMAGE]http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n27/David_Waples/PT-105%20Build/8d096ad4-d515-414f-97f4-8d68abfbbb9f_zps6d2b6f0f.jpg[/IMAGE]

This photo and factory drawing illustrate the correct flow of the deck lines.

[IMAGE]http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n27/David_Waples/PT-105%20Build/80103classhullprofile_zpsd6311504.jpg[/IMAGE]

[IMAGE]http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n27/David_Waples/PT-105%20Build/103classhullcorrectionarrows_zpsb9609c23.jpg[/IMAGE]

This factory drawing illustrates the slight crown of the deck. To replicate I will be adding frames with the correct crown so that when the deck is attached it will maintain its shape.

[IMAGE]http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n27/David_Waples/PT-105%20Build/80103classcrosssections_zps59d23ba0.png[/IMAGE]
Okay, time to get to work!






David Waples

Posted By: David Waples | Posted on: Apr 17, 2013 - 8:00pm
Total Posts: 1637 | Joined: Jan 2, 2007 - 9:55pm



Hi, David,
Good to see you are under way at last.


Best Regards,
Stu.

Measure twice, cut once.





Posted By: Stuart Hurley | Posted on: Apr 18, 2013 - 12:54am
Total Posts: 247 | Joined: Mar 19, 2013 - 3:32am



Ow. Thanks David, I'll have to add that to my "detail" page. The day room cabin will need some work too, Stu found some issues with it, particularly on the forward bulkhead.

Is the hull angle at the bow about 33 degrees off vertical? It looks a bit blunt in the image you posted but that may be the angle of the shot.




Posted By: Jeff D | Posted on: Apr 18, 2013 - 4:21am
Total Posts: 2033 | Joined: Dec 21, 2006 - 1:30am



Thanks Stu,

I just noticed this morning that my arrows didn't transfer over in the picture so I fixed that to show where the curves begin compared to the relatively straight sections of the hull.

Jeff, the bow angle is correct. The hull is so big that I had to angle it on my cutting matt so that it would fit. With the exception of it being a flat deck there's really nothing wrong with the hull.

I made a decision to remove the trim piece that runs just under the deck along the roughly 3/4 of the hull. I'll replace that with plastic strip. I think this is the path of least resistance in order to obtain a nice flowing curve. I've ground off one side and sanded it smooth. So far, so good. Lots of dust though.

Stu, I'm interested to hear what you found on the day cabin.

Dave

David Waples

Posted By: David Waples | Posted on: Apr 18, 2013 - 5:19am
Total Posts: 1637 | Joined: Jan 2, 2007 - 9:55pm



Very cool. i can't wait to follow your progress.



Posted By: ducati650 | Posted on: Apr 18, 2013 - 6:08am
Total Posts: 450 | Joined: Feb 19, 2007 - 10:01am



Hi, David,
I am afraid the day cabin is cursed. I have sent Jeff a complete list of everything I have done to my build so far, and he is giong to put up a page with some photos and text. Some of the changes are on my 'day cabin front and rear walls' thread although I have carried out more changes since then. I have built my exhaust system up on a 'false' transom piece of thick card to be fitted later after painting. It is much easier to work on it on a flat surface. I propped up my deck in the middle with lengths of kit sprue to force a bit more curvature into it, but I got into a lot of hurt with the charthouse fit so watch out when you do that. Fitting some frames might make it more consistant though. I wish I had thought to take off the side strip, It is difficult to make it follow the flare at the stern. I ended up compromising with this a little.


Best Regards,
Stu.

Measure twice, cut once.





Posted By: Stuart Hurley | Posted on: Apr 18, 2013 - 7:09am
Total Posts: 247 | Joined: Mar 19, 2013 - 3:32am



The hull / deck at the bow sheer line (outer edge of deck) is parallel with the water / base line for the first 3 frames or so before it starts going down. I think you have the downward turn starting too far back David. Check the hull side profile I have up, it should be pretty much dead on. It's based on the 13 hundred or so measurements given in the Offsets drawing.




Posted By: Jeff D | Posted on: Apr 18, 2013 - 8:41am
Total Posts: 2033 | Joined: Dec 21, 2006 - 1:30am



David,
I forgot to mention,
You probably have thought of this, but it may help you decide whether you live with the lack of curve at the bow or not. When you pare away the top edge of the hull at the bow you are of course, reducing the width of the hull V which then will not fit under the deck. You have to live with a large overhang at the bow and have a correct curve down, or just leave it.
If you go with the mod, you will not be able to use the screw because
the head will just pull through the deck (you have to reduce the screw pillar in the deck and remove the channel along the edge to get it to close) If you do not cut down the screw it will push through the stem.
I ended up taking a small amount off before I realised it was becoming a nightmare and stopped.

Best Regards,
Stu.

Measure twice, cut once.





Posted By: Stuart Hurley | Posted on: Apr 18, 2013 - 10:41am
Total Posts: 247 | Joined: Mar 19, 2013 - 3:32am



You beat me to the punch. I scraped the paint and putty off, found the screw and took it out. Than I split the deck from the hull back to the depth charge location. Than I realized sanding the top of the hull was not the way to do it. So about the distance from the tip of the bow to the back edge of the hatch I put about an inch long .060 wedge between the deck and the hull to raise the deck, glued it in and put the screw back in and epoxyed the seam. This is what I ended up with, a little putty and paint and your done.


[image]http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p249/ptboats/Bob%20Butler/bob-05.jpg[/image]

Posted By: Bob Butler | Posted on: Apr 18, 2013 - 11:10am
Total Posts: 192 | Joined: Mar 23, 2013 - 11:58am



Thanks for the input guys. Stu, I follow what you're saying about the deck being too proud of the hull. And after reading Bob's comments, photo, and looking at the drawings I think I'm going to try a combo of both. I'm going to bring the bow down about 1/8 inch, build up a little just forward of the Chart House, bring it back to the kit top, and then a slight rise in the stern. Then I'm going to try and sand that continuous flow into the top of the hull. My hope is that it wont adversely effect the look of the kit deck on the hull. It's a hard thing to try and explain but I'll give it a go and I'll share some photos with you.

Good call about the screw on the bow. I think I'm going to opt for welding it in place.

I have some time to think on it as I have a lot of grinding to do on the other side of the hull.

Dave


David Waples

Posted By: David Waples | Posted on: Apr 18, 2013 - 7:05pm
Total Posts: 1637 | Joined: Jan 2, 2007 - 9:55pm



Okay, here's tonight's work. I removed the trip on the opposite side and sanded my brains out. I found that at the forward end of where I removed the trim where there was a lot of curve I needed to use a round sanding form to obtain the right shape. Just wrap some 100 grit sandpaper around it and sand to shape. A little filler will be required to take care of some nicks.

[IMAGE]http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n27/David_Waples/PT-105%20Build/Image2_zps6de219f0.jpg[/IMAGE]

Next I marked on the bow where I wanted to sand down to. Using a flexible ruler i wrapped it around the bow and drew in my reference line. I took my Dremel and ground close to the reference line. Next I used a sanding block with 100 grit sand paper to fair in the curve I was looking for. I finished with my sanding sponge. On the stern I built it up with some Evergreen plastic. I put in a couple of layers and built up the stern to allow for the crown of the deck side to side. I'm going to let that dry overnight before removing the excess.

The actual boat is probably a little more exagerated than this but I'm happy with the way it looks compared to photos.

[IMAGE]http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n27/David_Waples/PT-105%20Build/Image_zps33c79f70.jpg[/IMAGE]

I think the bow shot sells it for me. Not too much, just enough to show off the curves and not screw up the deck.

[IMAGE]http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n27/David_Waples/PT-105%20Build/Image1_zpsd17111f5.jpg[/IMAGE]

[IMAGE]http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n27/David_Waples/PT-105%20Build/79a61518-acb9-4d39-838d-7a670dadd30a_zps3af96fc6.jpg[/IMAGE]]

[IMAGE]http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n27/David_Waples/PT%20BOATS/PT109Tassafaronga2.jpg[/IMAGE]

Over the next few nights I'll finish the stern and work on the frames to support the crown of the deck structure.

Dave

David Waples

Posted By: David Waples | Posted on: Apr 18, 2013 - 9:11pm
Total Posts: 1637 | Joined: Jan 2, 2007 - 9:55pm



Looking good Dave, I want to finish my boat off so would you and Stu stop finding stuff. I fixed the stern a long time ago but when you found the bow flating out I could'nt look at a photo without seeing it. I had to fix that. LOL



Posted By: Bob Butler | Posted on: Apr 18, 2013 - 9:30pm
Total Posts: 192 | Joined: Mar 23, 2013 - 11:58am



You guys are crazier than I ever thought. By the time you are done finding things wrong with the kit, you might as well just make your own. Good luck with this undertaking, I am finding it really something, so keep posting the photos.................



Posted By: Frank Andruss | Posted on: Apr 19, 2013 - 10:31am
Total Posts: 3964 | Joined: Feb 9, 2007 - 11:41am



Hi Dave,

Finally getting a chance to come over and check out your start!! Congrats on cracking the box!! Looks like you have your work cut out for you and I am looking forward to following along.!! [:-cheers-:]

Cheer,

T

Posted By: Todd Michalak | Posted on: Apr 19, 2013 - 8:53pm
Total Posts: | Joined: Unregistered




You guys are crazier than I ever thought. By the time you are done finding things wrong with the kit, you might as well just make your own. Good luck with this undertaking, I am finding it really something, so keep posting the photos.................



It's all good Frank. I can't say it enough. Out of the box this is an excellent kit. EVERY kit has opportunities for improvement. Designing a kit from drawings and photos (some of them confusing and difficult to interpret) is a difficult task and it's even more complicated with these boats because of all the changes made along the way. And in this scale! It's fun for me to discover the opportunities for improvement with others.

I think everyone's enjoying this kit from what I'm seeing. My intention is to post as much as I can on this build from start to finish. Also be sure to follow Todd's, Stu's, and Bob's builds. I'm hoping there will be more who will contribute as well.

Have fun everyone!
Dave

David Waples

Posted By: David Waples | Posted on: Apr 20, 2013 - 5:46am
Total Posts: 1637 | Joined: Jan 2, 2007 - 9:55pm



You guys are exhibiting some serious AMS (Advanced Modelers Syndrome) behavior. Have fun! I look forward to following your builds and trying to apply some lessons learned to my PT 156 build. I can't wait for the Italieri Accessories. If they are considering a second Accessory set, How about a tripod mount 20mm and a turret mount 20mm?

SteveS156

Posted By: SteveS156 | Posted on: Apr 20, 2013 - 12:03pm
Total Posts: | Joined: Unregistered



Inspired by Stu's torpedo tube work and the discussion we've been having on the torpedoes, I've started working on them. I've been experimenting on detailing the combustion chambers. More on that later.

The Italeri tubes have a double band where the breach meets the tube. Photos of the prototype show a single band. Using my very thin razor saw I cut off the end band by carefully inserting the blade between the bands and cutting. This went extremely well.

 photo Image_zps082828b6.jpg
 photo snapshot20080930104040.jpg

You probably noticed the bands. The bands wrapping the tubes are "T" shaped. I decided to wrap thin plastic around the tops of the bands to represent the "T" shape. Not perfect but I'm liking how it looks so far.

 photo Image2_zps36f7e160.jpg

Here they are with the breach in place. Not glued yet. A little clean up needs to happen first.
You can also see where I've followed Stu's lead and started making the left had tubes match the right hand.

 photo Image3_zps6c168e78.jpg

Dave


David Waples

Posted By: David Waples | Posted on: May 2, 2013 - 8:40pm
Total Posts: 1637 | Joined: Jan 2, 2007 - 9:55pm



David,
I hadn't noticed the double band at the breech. I will have to get the saw out. Again.
I really like the look of the strip you have added to the bands to make them a T shape,
Best Regards,
Stu.






Posted By: Stuart Hurley | Posted on: May 3, 2013 - 12:56am
Total Posts: 247 | Joined: Mar 19, 2013 - 3:32am



Dave, just curious, are you also going to add the securing chain that we see in the photo of the torpedo Flask.



Posted By: Frank Andruss | Posted on: May 3, 2013 - 7:04am
Total Posts: 3964 | Joined: Feb 9, 2007 - 11:41am



If this much is wrong on this kit, how much is wrong on the 596 kit?





Posted By: JBG327 | Posted on: May 3, 2013 - 3:28pm
Total Posts: 74 | Joined: Sep 29, 2012 - 2:40pm



David , keep up the good work, and keep posting your progress.



Posted By: Bob Butler | Posted on: May 3, 2013 - 6:44pm
Total Posts: 192 | Joined: Mar 23, 2013 - 11:58am



Hi guys,

Stu, Glad I could bring some more joy into your project. :-) Fortunately it's easy to clean up that second band but I hate to see you have to cut into your finished tubes.

Frank. Yes, I'm going to add chain to the combustion chambers. The chain keeps that ignitor from falling into the water. It should make for a nice detail.

The 109 and 596 kits are of similar quality. The 109 kit is a step up in detail but many of the parts created for the 596 kit are reproduced in the 109 kit. This is a quality kit. Out of the box kits build into very nice representations of the actual boat. Is it perfect? No. But find any kit that is. As an example the Tamiya 1/32 P-51 which some say is the best kit ever produced has multiple parts that are being improved upon by after market companies. Remember, not everything can be produced as an injection molded kit.

We gave Italeri a lot of confusing information and in my opinion they gave us a great kit to work with. And they listened to us and accepted our advice. Again, out of the box it builds up very nice. The quality of the modeling is excellent. I've come across no fit issues. That said, Stu, Bob, myself, and others like to go the extra mile. That's true of modelers in all areas of interest. We've spent years studying photographs and drawings and guess what. After all that we still miss details, or better said discover new details hidden from us before. If Italeri were to devote the time and energy to produce a 100% perfect boat with every known possible detail, it would be a $600 to $800 kit. Maybe more. In such a small part of the market who would pay that? I applaud Italeri for attacking this niche market with wonderful 1/35 brown water kits. You'll be happy with either kit. An their other kits are equally as nice.

Okay, I'll get off my soap box now.

Dave



David Waples

Posted By: David Waples | Posted on: May 3, 2013 - 7:15pm
Total Posts: 1637 | Joined: Jan 2, 2007 - 9:55pm



David,
Took a deep breath and went for it.

Best Regards,
Stu.






Posted By: Stuart Hurley | Posted on: May 3, 2013 - 8:18pm
Total Posts: 247 | Joined: Mar 19, 2013 - 3:32am



Tonight I spent the evening finishing a detail on the top center of the torpedo tubes. I'm not sure what this thing is. It consists of a rectangular base plate that I made from .015 thick plastic. There is a .040 rod that comes up out of the center. Then I used .015 thick plastic and cut some 45 degree triangle pieces to form the ribs (for lack of a better word). I thought about using some Bronco plastic nuts but they were too big. I ended up using some simulated .85mm brass nuts from Scale Hardware which were very close to what I was looking for. Doing it again I think I might go the next size down on the nuts. I drilled .024 diameter holes and dropped all the nuts on their shafts into those holes and secured with CA. I like the final outcome.

You can also see a close up of the banding I applied to the tubes.

 photo DSC03639_zps14bc4436.jpg

 photo DSC03640_zpsbc4f6afc.jpg

The prototype...

 photo 0764b005-c42a-48dc-8161-c9b722b33255_zps3892ab35.jpg

David Waples

Posted By: David Waples | Posted on: May 16, 2013 - 9:18pm
Total Posts: 1637 | Joined: Jan 2, 2007 - 9:55pm



Dave, that work is amazing. I wish I could still see as good as I used to. Those parts are getting a bit to small for me these days. I'm switched more into the "speed building" these days as my projects and unbuilt kits seem to collecting faster.

Oh man I hope those are not pieces off the 103 boat in the last photo floating in the water.



Posted By: Roy Forbes | Posted on: May 17, 2013 - 8:43am
Total Posts: 371 | Joined: Sep 5, 2012 - 4:57pm



David, Please contact me, rbbutler@frontier.com. Bob



Posted By: Bob Butler | Posted on: May 17, 2013 - 9:48am
Total Posts: 192 | Joined: Mar 23, 2013 - 11:58am



David-That is very good detail work.

Phillip



Posted By: Phillip Gore | Posted on: May 18, 2013 - 7:34am
Total Posts: | Joined: Unregistered



Wasn't former (and future) actor Robert Montgomery at the wheel of the 103 when this damage was incurred?




Posted By: Drew Cook | Posted on: May 18, 2013 - 11:17am
Total Posts: 1284 | Joined: Oct 19, 2006 - 10:44am



Here's an update. I thought with my wife out of town I would make more progress. Wrong! I'm not ready to show you the tubes yet. Still have a few things to work out there.

I corrected the hull bow to stern already. Now it's time to correct for deck arching. Here's the begining support structure I put in place. After it's good and dry I'll sand the arch into these cross beams. It occurred to me after I did all this work that I could place the beams deck edge height and then add shims in the middle to bring it to the proper arch. We'll save that for the next boat I guess. :-)

Hull arching method photo Image2_zpsea9585d4.jpg

Update:
Okay, I pronounce this a giant waste of time. It didn't work. The cross bars didn't give enough flexibility to the hull to allow the deck to fit correctly. So I'm cutting out all of these supports and I'll probably use Stu's method of using vertical poles from sprue to add rigidity to the deck.

 photo Presentation1_zps3dbace70.jpg

As you probably saw in Stu's boat the forward window on the day cabin requires lowering. I used Stu's method and cut the window out and slid it down to where it belongs. Then I added .40 sheet stock to replace what I cut out. I need to remove the bottom material once it dries overnight. Thanks Stu!

Forward Day Cabin End photo Image1_zps54178fff.jpg

The Elco factory drawings don't show a detail of the cockpit floor. Ted advised that the cockpit floor was fully covered with wood grate which was a carry over from the 77" Elco's. I picked up some wood grating material made of wood and available from Model Shipways. It goes together nicely and looks great. Sorry for the punn. Anyway, I cut out the kit part and filled the deck in flush with .040 plastic card. The grating is visible in this photo.

Bridge base photo Image_zps5346f3ea.jpg

That's all for now.
Dave

David Waples

Posted By: David Waples | Posted on: Jun 23, 2013 - 8:40pm
Total Posts: 1637 | Joined: Jan 2, 2007 - 9:55pm



Dave;
WHOA! Before Al reads this! You missunderstood me,
I stated that the 77" Elco had the entire cockpit floor like this, with the wood combing, and that the "little rectangle" of wood combing in front of the helm on the 80' Elco was a carry over idea from the 77' Elco.

I believe(my own idea here Dave) they went to the smaller rectangle, not only because of the smaller Coxswain flat area, but because from an operators stand point, I can see how small items could be dropped into that combing on the 77' Elco and the QM or whoever had to get down and dig through those little squares(I know it was a two peice removable item, but who is going to lift up that combing while underway?) to find whatever might have been dropped, especially at night! LOL!

However, With all of that said, you did do a nice job with the combing you have made, and it would set your model apart. Now cut it down to match the kits, molded piece. I see you bought it, so maybe it was not that bad or time consuming, I made mine from scratch, on my PT 48 and PT 59 models and it took about 3 hours for each!
Take care,
TED
P.S. I know they changed over to the rubber ribbed mat, I believe you said somewhere around PT 120-138? Well I think I am still going to keep it for my PT 596 and PT 599, even if it is incorrect, it just looks nicer.



Posted By: TED WALTHER | Posted on: Jun 24, 2013 - 7:16am
Total Posts: 2930 | Joined: Oct 16, 2006 - 7:42am



Thanks Ted for pulling me off the cliff,
I want to make sure I have this right. If I'm understanding correctly the grating is surrounded by a coaming which basically keeps water out of the grating. Is that correct? Did one of the vets you spoke with tell you about the coaming and the grating at the helm?

I have no idea where Italeri got the idea of the grating and curious if you know of any reference that documents this.

Thanks again. Looking forward to hearing back from you.
Dave

David Waples

Posted By: David Waples | Posted on: Jun 24, 2013 - 7:17pm
Total Posts: 1637 | Joined: Jan 2, 2007 - 9:55pm



Dave;
All I have is, it makes sense. Yes it was the same size as the molded piece. All I have is in the diagrams. As you suggested, this item disappeared around PT 120-138. Charge on it is correct for your boat!!!!
Take care,
TED
P.S. this is not something that I would think John Iles would have really noticed, as you might have surmised, correct me if you think I am wrong, But, he was the kind of guy who just jumped in and did the mission. If you still are in question, you need to employ PTHQ and see if they have a photo showing this, within the applicable boat numbers.



Posted By: TED WALTHER | Posted on: Jun 24, 2013 - 7:31pm
Total Posts: 2930 | Joined: Oct 16, 2006 - 7:42am



I keep been hearing about this rubber mat lately. I never knew Elco replaced the wood grating and I wonder how well that rubber stood up to the heat and humidity in the South Pacific.



Posted By: Roy Forbes | Posted on: Jun 25, 2013 - 8:10am
Total Posts: 371 | Joined: Sep 5, 2012 - 4:57pm



Roy,
Look at the photos at the pt127.org web site. These are the only pictures I've ever seen of the cockpit floor and you can see matting. These are late war photos.
Dave

David Waples

Posted By: David Waples | Posted on: Jun 26, 2013 - 5:57am
Total Posts: 1637 | Joined: Jan 2, 2007 - 9:55pm



Okay, I just updated a previous slide. Don't do what I did by adding the cross bars. The hull needs some flexibility to secure the deck correctly. I think Stu had the best approach by supporting the underside of the deck with poles from sprue to give the deck some strength. Now I'm off to cut all that out.
Dave


 photo Presentation1_zps3dbace70.jpg

David Waples

Posted By: David Waples | Posted on: Jul 6, 2013 - 5:36am
Total Posts: 1637 | Joined: Jan 2, 2007 - 9:55pm



David,

I fixed my hull/deck then pit a sprue post under the rear deck, I was going to do the same at the front then found some 10mm square basswood from a ancient failed wooden build, I used this to place a prop under the front deck then cut two long lengths and Cyano'd them either side of the slot in the deck and made props to push the deck up to achieve the desired angle. this effectively made the whole length stay uniform and allowed adjustment with everything in place. secures the props with cyano gel

Keith

Never to old to learn something
Doesn't stop me forgetting the obvious though

Posted By: Kornbeef | Posted on: Jul 7, 2013 - 7:47am
Total Posts: | Joined: Unregistered



Thanks Keith,
I think that's the approach I'm going to take as well.
Dave

David Waples

Posted By: David Waples | Posted on: Jul 7, 2013 - 10:11am
Total Posts: 1637 | Joined: Jan 2, 2007 - 9:55pm



Some progress on the torpedo tubes....

I used Archer Fine Transfer arc weld beads .015 inch (.38 mm) wide to simulate the weld line that runs down the port side of the tubes. These are resin weld lines printed on decal film. You apply them like decals but they are 3D. Beautiful stuff!

In this picture you'll also see where I added the bolts and mounting detail which attaches the cross brace to the tube bracket (for lack of something better to call it). The nuts and bolts are scale brass and are beautifully made and easy to use. I secured them in place with Gator Grip PVA glue.

Torpedo Tube photo DSC03642_zps5abbe8cd.jpg

Here's a photo of the remainder of my weld lines.

Archer Fine Transfer Weld Beads photo DSC03643_zpsd7b44af4.jpg

Now for the ridiculous. I'm improving the look of the tube combustion chambers by punching out discs and between them installing .7mm Simulated Hex Bolts Nickel Plated Brass from Scale Hardware. I used these because they were the only thing I could find that would fit between the plates without making the space in between too large. Would I do this again? No. For the next boat I will punch out .010 thick plastic with my punch set and glue them in the same pattern as I applied the bolts. The bottom line is that they're so small and sandwiched between the plates are hardly visible. It was fun, challenging, and looks good. But I think the plastic punches will look just as good, be less expensive, and easier to install.

Update: My concern with the nickel plated nuts was that they would not hold paint. I primed them with an automotive etching primer. Two things. First, once the primer was applied the hex shape was almost impossible to distinguish with visors. Second the primer still would not hold on to the nickel plating to my satisfaction. Solution for me will be to use a miniature punch set to create .06 diameter discs which will be secured with Gator Grip PVA. Punch set is ordered and on the way. I still like the brass hex nuts as shown in the photo below because they are very visible. I'm not concerned with them holding paint.

Combustion Chamber Plates photo DSC03641_zps557e4fbe.jpg

Here's the drawing of the combustion chamber for reference

 photo Torpedotubeignitor.jpg



David Waples

Posted By: David Waples | Posted on: Jul 14, 2013 - 8:50pm
Total Posts: 1637 | Joined: Jan 2, 2007 - 9:55pm



David, I can't wait to see this boat when you finish.



Posted By: Bob Butler | Posted on: Jul 14, 2013 - 11:58pm
Total Posts: 192 | Joined: Mar 23, 2013 - 11:58am



Finally making some progress back at the bench.

First some detail on the torpedo tubes.

Rivets were added to the back and top ends of the torpedo tubes based on the Elco drawings. I used Archer Fine Transfer rivet decals. I found that they went on beautifully over bare plastic. I used Micro Sol to snug them down. Micro Set is useless for these decals.

Adding Archer rivet decals to torpedo tubes photo IMG_0549_zpsf5190186.jpg

More to come on the tubes later.

I've wanted to maintain the planking lines on the deck but I also wanted to remove the raised edges and correct the stern edge of the decking. I really liked the raised panel lines that Italeri added. They are the perfect dimension. However I realized that trying to repair those incredibly fine lines where I corrected the raised detail I wanted to remove was going to be impossible. The only way to do it was to scribe the lines into the deck. First I tried free hand with my favorite scribing tool from UMM USA. These tools have the ability to draw straight lines by pushing the tool. I found it was too difficult to make perfect lines and gave up on that. I had to fill in my errors with Mr. Surfacer 500. After sanding smooth, I moved on to the next technique which was to lay down a straight edge, tape in place, and scribe the lines in. The straight edge is very thin flexible metal. I used the Italeri lines as a guide and proceeded to carefully scribe the lines in. This is what I was looking for! By the way, the straight edge I'm using is also from UMM USA. They have the best tools! I've spent a couple of nights on it already and am about 1/3 the way to completion. After I sand down the deck slightly to remove what's left of the Italeri lines and add paint I should have the effect I'm looking for.

Scribing deck lines photo IMG_0713_zpscb1b5827.jpg

I think you can see that the lines are coming along nicely.

Scribed deck lines on stern photo IMG_0715_zpsbbe53a89.jpg

Scribed deck lines photo IMG_0718_zps5c2d05d9.jpg

That's all for now. I have 4-5 more nights of scribing ahead of me.

Dave

David Waples

Posted By: David Waples | Posted on: Oct 21, 2013 - 9:14pm
Total Posts: 1637 | Joined: Jan 2, 2007 - 9:55pm



Dave;
It looks great, keep charging!!!
Take care,
TED



Posted By: TED WALTHER | Posted on: Oct 22, 2013 - 4:44am
Total Posts: 2930 | Joined: Oct 16, 2006 - 7:42am



Rivet decals? How clever, just the thing to add subtle detail without overdoing it.

Nice scribing! And it will be more accurate than raised lines.

Endeavor to persevere David. It's going to be a beautiful model when you get done. I'm sure I'll like it even more than your egg submarine. :D




Posted By: Jeff D | Posted on: Oct 22, 2013 - 6:14am
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Posted By: Jerry Gilmartin | Posted on: Oct 22, 2013 - 3:24pm
Total Posts: 1285 | Joined: Oct 8, 2006 - 11:16pm




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Posted By: Michael Rowden | Posted on: Oct 22, 2013 - 4:22pm
Total Posts: 7 | Joined: Oct 15, 2013 - 6:59pm



Okay, life at home is getting back under control so back to modeling. Working with the flange for the torpedo tube combustion chamber I tried some stainless steel hex nuts. When I painted them I found that they wouldn't hold paint even with a primer. At first I thought I would give up that idea. So I made a set out of plastic stock and my handy punch set. Then while casting some other parts (for another project) I thought why not cast these flanges. So I went ahead and made molds at cast both the plastic and stainless sets in resin and these are the results...

Original stainless masters. You may note that by the time I got to casting one of the nuts vanished. No worries. One more resin pour takes care of that.

Combustion Chamber Plates photo DSC03641_zps557e4fbe.jpg

Mold and finished castings. In my opinion you can't tell the difference between the plastic round punched nuts and the perfect stainless nuts without a strong magnifying glass. But it was an interesting experiment. One casting is thinner than the other. I'll try them both and see which one works out best. But I have no hesitation using either one on the finished model.

Combustion chamber flange photo IMG_1082_zpsc6fb9e39.jpg

Dave

David Waples

Posted By: David Waples | Posted on: Feb 18, 2014 - 4:37am
Total Posts: 1637 | Joined: Jan 2, 2007 - 9:55pm



Those are stunning Dave. Way above my pay grade.



Posted By: Roy Forbes | Posted on: Feb 19, 2014 - 8:11am
Total Posts: 371 | Joined: Sep 5, 2012 - 4:57pm



Dave;
That looks awesome, I am currently making Kapok Life Jackets out of Sculpey. I agree with Roy. So much so, I might just send you the next thing I need to cast.[:-laughing-:]
Take care,
TED



Posted By: TED WALTHER | Posted on: Feb 19, 2014 - 10:13am
Total Posts: 2930 | Joined: Oct 16, 2006 - 7:42am



Dave,

Really looking forward to seeing your completed work on this big baby!



Posted By: Drew Cook | Posted on: Feb 19, 2014 - 2:30pm
Total Posts: 1284 | Joined: Oct 19, 2006 - 10:44am