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Topic: White Ensign Paint Question??? |
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Bob Butler

New Member
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Posted on: Aug 7, 2013 - 9:45am
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My (Franks) PT 302 build has gotten to the point of the frist paint being applied. I bought a bunch of White Ensign. I've mixed some up and applied it to some sample plastic but it stays tacky forever, it seems. Its not sanding very well. I've used lacquer and nitrocellulose thinner (seems to work better with this) for thinning. Ajusted the air pressure and sprayed at different distances. I'm out of tricks with this stuff. I've got Federal Standard equivalents and charts so I can mix the colors I need from my beloved Model Master paints. But I've spent around $40 for White Ensign paints, is there anyway to make this stuff dry besides time? I'm talking 2 days and still tacky.
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Frank Andruss

TOP BOSS

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Posted on: Aug 7, 2013 - 5:18pm
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Stan said if your using plastic to make sure you are priming the plastic first, you should not have any problem with wood. WEM is tough to work with, and Stan said he had the same problem using this paint. Stan said to use Model Master, which he finds easier to work with. It is also possible that the thinner you are using is not compatible with the WEM Paint, you should use their thinner. Possible it could be the primer too. If primer is not working you can tell by it bubbling and staying very tacky.
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David Waples

TOP BOSS

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Posted on: Aug 7, 2013 - 7:43pm
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Interesting. I've not had that experience with WEM Color Coats. I live in a dry climate so that may have some effect. I've never seen or used WEM thinner. I use Model Master airbrush thinner with excellent results. Because of my climate I generally add a couple of drops of retarder to keep it from drying too fast. I think my paints 50/50 and use thin coats. I've never had it remain sticky. It seems to dry the same as the Model Master products.
You may want to reach out to John Snyder at WEM and tell him about your experience. He may have some guidance for you.
Good luck!
Dave
David Waples |
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John Snyder

New Member
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Posted on: Aug 7, 2013 - 8:33pm
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I use lacquer thinner (cellulose thinner) exclusively with Colourcoats, and it speeds drying times. I suspect the root problem here is insufficient mixing. Our pigments are custom-ground extremely fine for a smooth finish, but the downside of that is that when they settle out of suspension, it takes a LOT of mixing. I use an electric paint shaker from Micro Mark, and typically put a tin on the shaker for 5 minutes. I then pop the lid and stir for a minute or so, then back on the shaker for another minute. I start with a 1:1 paint/thinner ratio and adjust from there as necessary. I typically airbrush at about 22 - 25 psi.
If you are using lacquer/cellulose thinner, be careful not to airbrush wet coats onto plastic as the "hot" thinner can craze the surface.
Cheers,
John Snyder
White Ensign Models
http://WhiteEnsignModels.com |
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Bob Butler

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Posted on: Aug 7, 2013 - 9:16pm
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Thanks every one! I've done all that, I think I've ended up with a bad batch. I was using Deck Blue for the samples and I used Haze Grey on a few other parts and the they cured overnight. Just checked the samples and they still havn't cured. Lesson learned always test with samples frist. I'm so glad I didn't spray it on the model. I think God is with me on this project,
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Wayne Traxel |

MASTER

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Posted on: Aug 8, 2013 - 8:14am
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Hi Bob, I too thought I had purchased some bad Model Master Medium Green paint. Paint wasn't fully dry after a couple of days and light sanding caused finish to look grooved and not smooth. Discovered the old Dehumidifier was not up to the task and bought a new one. New machine showed 66% humidity in my shop and it took a day and a half to bring it down to 40%.. The paint is now dry and sands like its supposed to.
Wayne Traxel |
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Bob Butler

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Posted on: Aug 8, 2013 - 11:34am
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Thanks Wayne, something I'll look into.
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