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» Forum Category: PT Boats of WWII
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» Forum Name: PT Boats - General
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» Topic:
PT 337 update
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Greetings,
Well, finally have worked through family and work issues and had some time to spend on my PT337 conversion; thought I share with you all.
First, based on the excellent inputs I received previously and finally having acquired the plan set I remodeled the engineroom/ventilator that I had shared earlier. After reviewing the plans I decided it would be easier to just start from scratch.
[IMAGE]http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a249/bwross1/PT%20337/newvent.jpg[/IMAGE]
I still haven't modeled the handles as I'm trying to figure out a way of doing it that will be to scale and yet be durable. Coming soon.
So for your viewing pleasure, below is the boat in its current state. Ive just about finished sanding off all of the overscale deck planking and have started making modifications/corrections to the cabin structures. Additionally, I have fabricated my take on the air scoops that were fitted over the side ports of the chart room.
[IMAGE]http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a249/bwross1/PT%20337/boatupdate.jpg[/IMAGE]
Since the plan set has the layout plans for the ELCO boat cradle I've started building one so eventually the finished model will rest in the period correct cradle (pictures to follow as I can).
As always, if you see something amiss or not correct please sound off so I can get it fixed.
Best,
Bruce
Bruce Ross
Posted By: bwross | Posted on: Nov 3, 2011 - 3:59pm
Total Posts: | Joined: Unregistered
Nice work, Bruce...
I'm somewhat curious as to your reason for adding the thicker chines...were the molded chines on the kit hull not to your liking? I had thought they were pretty much to scale as is...?
Posted By: Drew Cook | Posted on: Nov 3, 2011 - 5:35pm
Total Posts: 1306 | Joined: Oct 19, 2006 - 10:44am
Hi Drew,
Looking at pictures of the original boats and studying the plans it struck me that the chine guards stood out quite prominently. The hull has modeled just didn't seem to have the same visual impact.....thus I built them up. I tried to get as close to the plan dimensions but may have went over just a bit.
Thanks for looking.
Bruce
Bruce Ross
Posted By: bwross | Posted on: Nov 3, 2011 - 5:52pm
Total Posts: | Joined: Unregistered
Nice...
Posted By: Mark Culp | Posted on: Nov 3, 2011 - 6:10pm
Total Posts: 135 | Joined: Oct 15, 2006 - 2:56pm
Lookin' good.
Will
Posted By: Will Day | Posted on: Nov 3, 2011 - 11:10pm
Total Posts: 1955 | Joined: Oct 8, 2006 - 4:19pm
Coming along nicely Bruce! A couple of observations...
1. I think the railings work best if you make them from annealed brass rod and solder them together. I used the WEM photoetch set as a pattern. I also used TIX solder as it melts at lower temperatures. This would give you the strongest result. You could try to use superglue but it will be more brittle and less forgiving to movement. I think we've talked about this already but thought I would make note of it again.
2. It may be too late but I noticed on the actual boat that the torpedo tube mounts were shaved down somehow. On my model I back filled the mounts with epoxy since the casting is somewhat hollow underneath. If the deck is already attached you could probably fill with plastic somehow.
Keep it coming. I'm enjoying your progress.
Dave
David Waples
Posted By: David Waples | Posted on: Nov 4, 2011 - 4:36am
Total Posts: 1679 | Joined: Jan 2, 2007 - 9:55pm
Hey Dave,
Thanks for the input. Couple of questions if I might; I thought that the handrails on the cabins were square in cross section like the toe boards on the bow. What diameter of brass did you use?
I noticed the tube plates needing to be taken down more, I've been thinking of how to do it with the minumum of work and least chance of damaging surrounding areas.
I have another question for the board in general; looking over the plans it looks like the partition bulkhead just aft of the wheel was taken down at some point....is this correct?
thanks
Bruce
Bruce Ross
Posted By: bwross | Posted on: Nov 4, 2011 - 5:16pm
Total Posts: | Joined: Unregistered
I think I used a .028 dia brass rod. It could have been a little smaller than that. Hard to tell now with paint added. All the references I have show the hand rails as round. The brackets for the hand rails on the chart house seem to have either cast or stamped end pieces. Maybe somebody here knows better. But overall they are round rails which would make sense.
Looking at your reference photo it appears that the wood bases remain from the tube brackets. On mine I sanded off all the hardware from the tops of the bases and I went through the plastic. I ended up back filling with epoxy and sanding smooth before adding the WEM photo etch parts to the top. I did this before applying the deck. I think epoxy would serve you well filling where you need to.
That shield around the helm was often times removed. I wouldn't say it is conclusive but it does appear that it was removed on this boat. It was done for a variety of reasons. Mr. Keresey removed it from the 105 boat to try and reduce weight. I've read where others did it to make it easier to move around.
Dave
David Waples
Posted By: David Waples | Posted on: Nov 4, 2011 - 7:57pm
Total Posts: 1679 | Joined: Jan 2, 2007 - 9:55pm
Coming along nicely Bruce!
The grab rails on PTs 103-138 were 1" round brass along with brass stanchions. After that they went with 1" x 1 1/4" oak rails with cone shaped teak stanchions. Except for the rails on top of the chart house which fit into the stanchions with the drilled boss for mounting the forward life lines. The port aft rail stanchions had the cone tops cut out to fit the round bar (not shown in the following image). Here's a few views of them:
[image]http://www.pt103.com/images/asst/elcoGrabRailStanchions.jpg[/image]
PTs 314-367 didn't come from Elco fitted with armor.
The chine guard was 4 1/2 x 2. The top tapered 1 to 3 1/2 at the outside.
Posted By: Jeff D | Posted on: Nov 6, 2011 - 4:08pm
Total Posts: 2200 | Joined: Dec 21, 2006 - 1:30am
I'm very impressed by the engine room hatch...wow. Ok, I'm a novice modeler-just finished a 1/72 scale model of my Dad's boat-PT 342 using the Revell PT-109 kit and looking at your hatch...mine looks terrible. Wow, nice job. Care to make another????[:-cheers-:]
Posted By: Jeff Sherry | Posted on: Nov 6, 2011 - 4:50pm
Total Posts: 84 | Joined: Oct 30, 2006 - 8:04pm
Jeff D
Thanks for the information and the great 3D picture. After reading Dave's comments I went back and reviewed the drawings again and see where the rails are that you've modeled; but it looked like the railing on the day cabin used the rectangular wood rails....is that correct?
Jeff S
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it. As for doing one for you......contact me off line and we can talk.
Bruce
Bruce Ross
Posted By: bwross | Posted on: Nov 6, 2011 - 6:34pm
Total Posts: | Joined: Unregistered
You're welcome Bruce. The rectangular wood rails would have been used everywhere except for the 2 at the forward top of the chart house. The same with the stanchions in addition to the port forward top chart house (round) rail.
Here's a breakdown of the railings from the Elco parts catalog our webmaster Dick has made available to us:
[image]http://www.pt103.com/images/asst/ElcoPartsCatalogGrabRailLengths.jpg[/image]
The catalog can be downloaded here:
[url]http://www.ptboats.org/cgi-local/sitenetbbs/netboardr.cgi?fid=102&cid=101&tid=1942&sc=20&pg=1&x=0[/url]
Posted By: Jeff D | Posted on: Nov 7, 2011 - 5:38am
Total Posts: 2200 | Joined: Dec 21, 2006 - 1:30am
Here's some other dimensions for the railings:
Teak stanchions:
p/n 31221:
Quantity per boat: 79
Height: 1 3/8
Cone bottom: 1 1/2, cone top: 1
p/n 31222:
Quantity per boat: 5 (for 2 rails on boat interior)
Height: 2
Cone bottom: 1 3/4, cone top: 1
p/n 31223:
Quantity per boat: 2 (for round rail on top of chart house on port forward)
Height: 1 11/16 (top dished so center of 1 rail is 2 out from mounting surface)
Cone bottom: 1 3/4, cone top: 1
*********************************
Brass stanchions and rails:
Center of 1 round rail, to mounting surface: 2
Mahogany end plugs: radius at end: 1/2, exposed height: 5/8
*********************************
Chart house stanchions with lifeline mounting boss:
Center of 1 round rail, to mounting surface: 2
On the starboard rail, only the forward stanchion boss is drilled for lifeline
*********************************
Notes from PT 139 and on drawings:
All stanchions to be shimmed up where necessary.
All rails below deck are painted red with stanchions to suit surrounding work.
Posted By: Jeff D | Posted on: Nov 7, 2011 - 8:40am
Total Posts: 2200 | Joined: Dec 21, 2006 - 1:30am
Jeff, great information!!
Thanks, I think that I'm good to go!
Regards,
Bruce
Bruce Ross
Posted By: bwross | Posted on: Nov 7, 2011 - 6:25pm
Total Posts: | Joined: Unregistered
