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Topic: Another 1/35 PT-109 Build-Almost from the Box! |
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Phillip Gore
New Member
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Posted on: May 10, 2013 - 8:04pm
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Greetings Fellow Modelers,
Hopeful this post will go better than the last two. Here are last progress photos that show where I am now.
The guidance railing for the forward machine gun turret is shown. The kit’s two parts were carefully glued together, then the seam line was removed to make it look like a single piece. Needless to say this assembly is extremely fragile!
The guidance railing for the forward machine gun turret is shown being test fitted in place.
Using the kit locating holes caused the rear turret guidance railing assembly to lean forward too much (in my opinion). My solution was to drill one new mounting hole about 3/32” lower than the original. It might not be correct to do this, but when I test mounted the day cabin assembly to the hull, the turret guidance railing looked straight (normal) when viewed from the side and rear. Note that small strips of .015” styrene were used to cover the inside “canvas” seam lines.
When you look at this photo I know many people are thinking, “Why are you test fitting the “A” frame mast when strong evidence suggest this had been removed from PT-109, even before Kennedy took command?” Although the mast should not be on the model I am building, I feel the piece is such an integral part of the “look” of the 103 class PT boat that I will probably include it. After all, I am the person who is going to be looking at the finished model in the glass display case for the next twenty plus years.
Small styrene pieces were rolled and located in the open “holes” at the bases of the forward and rear turrets. These were added since the open holes were very noticeable, even after all the machine gun parts were added.
One of the torpedo tubes is shown after adding the kit’s photo etch parts.
More photo etch parts in place.
Two of the torpedo warheads are shown after the center holes have been drilled, and a small amount of 5-Minute epoxy has been added-leaving a small, smooth “bump”.
Until next time…
Phillip1
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David Waples
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Posted on: May 10, 2013 - 9:55pm
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Nice clean work Phillip. Excellent construction techniques. Keep it coming!
Dave
David Waples |
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David Buck
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Posted on: May 11, 2013 - 2:17pm
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Hi Phillip, great work on the 109 the clean up of the join lines does add to the model, and at this scale these things are not small and do stand out.
Just a small point you might want to think about, your 50's clean up does look good but I was wondering why you left the front and rear sights on them.
On the boats the sights front and rear were removed and a cover plate screwed onto the mounting holes to protect them.
Have a look at the last couple of posts there are some photos of the 50's that show this or go to Jeff Ds site his drawings show this quite clearly and are a great guide in this area.
After looking at the booklet that comes with the model I found that it has the photo of the PT109 with the crew on the foredeck, unlike some of the censored photos this has the starboard 50's and with a little work with a scanner and the computer zoom function a good look at them shows this and other details, couldn't get any thing better than that!
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Phillip Gore
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Posted on: May 11, 2013 - 4:29pm
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David Waples-Thanks for the compliment.
David Buck-Thanks for the compliment and suggestions for the .50 guns. I will check out Jeff D's excellent drawings and make the modifications if it looks simple enough.
Below is a construction photo left off the last post.
Two of the torpedo warheads are shown after the center holes have been drilled, and a small amount of 5-Minute epoxy has been added-leaving a small, smooth “bump”.
Phillip
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Phillip Gore
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Posted on: May 13, 2013 - 7:03pm
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Greetings Fellow Modelers,
Every part of my model has been cleaned up, test fitted and all of the basic sub-assemblies are complete. Total time on the project at this point is about 120 hours. It is a lot of time but this kit has a large number of pieces (approximately 415 plastic and 70 photo-etched), and this includes finishing the display base.
It is time to start painting. After reading multiple posts on this site concerning PT-109’s “possible” exterior color, I have decided to use Model Master Euro Dark Green-1764 (FS34092). I think this color is close to what is shown in the PT-109 color photos David Waples has posted. Since there appears to be no single right answer on this subject, I am content with this choice.
Below are the latest progress photos.
1st Image: A standard painting practice I use is to apply the exterior color in multiple, thin coats. After each coat has dried, a very soft cloth (or wide, flat sable brush) is used to gently buff the paint. Doing this takes more time but eliminates any grainy paint buildup in the corners, and prevents dust from getting trapped in the paint. This photo was taken while the second coat was being applied. I believe a total of four coats were added.
2nd and 3rd Image: After the base color was applied Model Master Dark Ghost Gray-1741 was dry brushed over the entire deck to highlight the raised details and create a washed out look. This same effect will not be added to the deck structures (i.e. day cabin/chart room/engine hatch). Lastly, dark gray pastel dust was brushed over the recesses and corners to create greater shadow and contrast.
Until next time...
Phillip
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Roy Forbes
TOP BOSS
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Posted on: May 17, 2013 - 9:05am
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Really nice work Phillip. I have been watching your build as I have been speed building my 157. I like your choice of color for your 109 and is one I'm considering when I get started on my 109 next. I am wondering if you are going to give the final project a shot of dull coat or leave a good thing alone since you have used chalks in your weathering. I found any over spray will do a number on a "chalk" weathered project.
Great work.
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Phillip Gore
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Posted on: May 20, 2013 - 6:58pm
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Greetings Fellow Modelers,
The latest painting and assembly work is shown below:
1st and 2nd Image: More photos of the deck and hull with the green color applied. Hopefully you can see the deck color is not uniform, but varies in tone a good bit thanks to the Dark Ghost Gray dry brushing.
3rd and 4th Image: Work moves to painting the area below the waterline. I used painter’s tape instead of regular masking tape to reduce the chance of pulling up the green paint.
5th Image: For the lower hull color I used a 50/50 mix of Model Master Insignia Red-1705 (FS31136) and Model Master Rust-1785. The photo shows the hull after painting and removing the tape. Dark gray pastel dust has been applied to the drive shaft openings, drive shaft supports and rudder areas.
6th Image: Dark gray pastel powder was carefully applied with a small brush along the hull, right below the waterline to represent discoloration.
7th Image: Close up of the bow showing the sharp demarcation of the waterline. This photo gives a good representation of the green and red colors used.
8th Image: Close up of the stern. Unfortunately after the lower hull was painted, I realized I missed the location of the waterline by approximately 3/16” (too high). I wish I had been more careful…but it’s all good.
9th Image: The chart room is shown after paint, pastel dust and light dry brushing have been applied.
10th through 12th Image: These images show the chart room after adding the decals and windows. The decals are from an AeroMaster 1/48 Numbers and Letters Sheet (No.48-050B). The backside of the windows were painted flat black before being installed.
Until next time…
Phillip
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David Waples
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Posted on: May 20, 2013 - 8:52pm
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Nicely done Phillip. I like the color you selected. Good choice on the lettering as well. I also like how you used the pastels for weathering. Thanks for sharing!
Dave
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Phillip Gore
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Posted on: May 24, 2013 - 5:25pm
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Roy-Thanks for the compliment. I will not add dullcote since I have the finish I want. You are right that it is a mistake to add dullcote after pastel weathering has been applied.
David-Thanks for the compliments and continued support.
Greetings Fellow Modelers,
1st through 7th Image: Below are photos showing the chart house after being glued to the deck. I am happy with how it looks now, but a lot of work was required to get here. The rectangular hole Italeri cut from the middle of the deck part caused the inside edges to warp and twist (at least on my kit). I didn’t really notice it until the superstructure pieces were test fitted over both sides of the hole. The first time I glued the chart house in place I did not apply enough pressure, and ended up with unacceptable gaps-making me an unhappy camper. I had to break the chart house loose from the deck, which damaged the assembly and damaged the paint finish on the deck. After a couple of hours of repair work I tried again. The second time the join was much better, although there were still some small gaps. The gap problem was eliminated by adding very thin styrene strips to cover the join line. It worked out well, but I am certainly glad it is over. I believe the same problem will come up again when the day cabin is attached, but to a lesser degree. Has anyone else experienced this issue? I hope you enjoy the photos.
Until next time…
Phillip
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Phillip Gore
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Posted on: Jun 2, 2013 - 10:49am
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Fellow Modelers,
The latest progress photos are shown.
1st through 6th Image (taken outside-late afternoon): The main assembly is shown after the day cabin, engine hatch and all the cockpit walls have been added. These main pieces do not want to mate to the hull very well. I used small pieces Evergreen styrene to fill any noticeable gaps. The hull has been permanently attached to the base, which greatly reduces the possibility of damaging the hull’s paint finish through handling. The propellers were painted brass, then the color was weathered/toned down with dark gray pastel powder.
7th through 14th Image (taken inside without a flash under florescent lights): Many more deck details have been added. The cockpit is finished. I debated about what color to paint the life ring, and I am glad I went with light gray. It adds a nice contrast against the green. I also added dark gray pastel powder to the outside of all of the windows. I think it looks better and more realistic than having very shiny black openings.
Until next time...
Phillip
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