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 Author  Topic: Update for the PT-157 model photo etch project
TheBridge

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Post a Reply To This Topic    Reply With Quotes     Edit Message     View Profile of TheBridge  Posted on: Aug 5, 2015 - 8:32am
I said I'd post updates to my photo etch project for my PT 157 model. Below are some of the pieces that are coming out this:

The photo plate. There are actually three plates with three thicknesses and 1/2 thicknesses so there are 6 thicknesses representing a most every thickness of steel used in the PT parts. ALl parts are draw to actual dimensions per the Dick Washichek PT blueprints he found in the National Archives several years ago (and available on DVD now because of him). WIthout this, none of this would be possible.

After drawing the scale of the CAD drawing is then reset to the scale of the my model and all parts then are automatically resized to match. It's magic! For other scales (mine is 1:32) the only change would be in the thickness of brass plates used for the etching to match.

Here is the entire plate:



The deck hatch covers
(uses 5 pieces for each hatch from the photo etch plate)



The completed deck deadlight (uses 3 pieces per deadlight)



One the two cross bars used on each deadlight. This is where the photo etch process really shines. The bar is exactly like the real ones, including the subtle arch, and cannot be made in injection plastic or styrene processes. It is just too small!



Deck vent (made of 6 pieces)



Stern flag staff with primer coat
(3 pieces)



Window frames (still attached to the photo etch frame). They're gorgeous.



Throttle housing.. in process of assembly.
This is a mixture of photo etch corrugations along the top and the section flanges attached to shaped styrene strip.




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David Waples

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Post a Reply To This Topic    Reply With Quotes     Edit Message     View Profile of David Waples  Posted on: Aug 6, 2015 - 4:50am
Very nice work Bridge! Are you going to offer them up for sale?
Dave

David Waples

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TheBridge

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Post a Reply To This Topic    Reply With Quotes     Edit Message     View Profile of TheBridge  Posted on: Aug 6, 2015 - 8:35am
Dave - when done, I hope to write up my notes into some basic instructions. I caution that as I've gone through about 7 iterations of the photo etch plate, as I was making tweaks to help make it more easily 'buildable' for the assembled pieces, so I'm used to it now. This is would only be for experienced modelers, such as yourself, who can see ahead on assembling parts and test fitting before gluing.

P.S. I can scale the artwork for any scale. Then the question is specifying the brass plate thicknesses (there will be three required), but I can make a chart of that for the more common scales.

- Bridge


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Daniele Klay

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Post a Reply To This Topic    Reply With Quotes     Edit Message     View Profile of Daniele Klay  Posted on: Aug 7, 2015 - 3:43am
Bridge, ir you're scaling up your cad work to 1/16th you will for sure hava one buyer from europe.. are your window frames flat or recessed on the back side?
I'm doing the deadlight frames in resin from silicone moulds with cabon reinforced bars. Works well in 1/16th might work in 1/32nd also...
Keep up the good work
Daniele

Daniele Kly

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TED WALTHER

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Post a Reply To This Topic    Reply With Quotes     Edit Message     View Profile of TED WALTHER   Send Email To TED WALTHER Posted on: Aug 7, 2015 - 7:04am
Bridge;
That looks awesome!!
take care,
TED


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TheBridge

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Post a Reply To This Topic    Reply With Quotes     Edit Message     View Profile of TheBridge  Posted on: Aug 7, 2015 - 8:12am
Daniele - they are flat on the bottom so a cross section of the frame would be like an "L".


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TheBridge

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Post a Reply To This Topic    Reply With Quotes     Edit Message     View Profile of TheBridge  Posted on: Aug 7, 2015 - 8:32am
Daniele - I always assumed that when I put in the window (using thin styrene as these are going to be painted), I would fit it into the frame and place at the depth as the original window. Actually if I think about it, I could just do the window as a half thickness etch and we'd not have to fabricate a window at all as the windows can be solid material (i.e. we don't need then to be transparent as they are just painted over anyway).


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Daniele Klay

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Post a Reply To This Topic    Reply With Quotes     Edit Message     View Profile of Daniele Klay  Posted on: Aug 7, 2015 - 9:01am
Not all boats had the windows painted over at all times(see Russ Pullano's pics on PT195) so keeping them open would be a nice touch.
Better still if the clear panel could be inserted in a recess like the original.
Food for thought...
Greetings.

Daniele Kly

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TheBridge

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Post a Reply To This Topic    Reply With Quotes     Edit Message     View Profile of TheBridge  Posted on: Aug 7, 2015 - 10:04am
I can put a recess edge on the backside then to accommodate whatever anyone wants to put in.


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TheBridge

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Post a Reply To This Topic    Reply With Quotes     Edit Message     View Profile of TheBridge  Posted on: Aug 28, 2015 - 6:07am
Daniele Klay,

I am fabricating two windows version now. One with a solid center but positioned just like it was a window, which will make it so one doesn't have to put a window in the frame; it will already be there. A second frame series which will have a recess lip, from the back, to allow putting in a clear window. It should be fund to play with this.

Bridge


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