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 Author  Topic: Italeri 1/35 PT109 The Final Days
  Ultimate Shield

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Post a Reply To This Topic    Reply With Quotes     Edit Message   Posted on: Oct 5, 2014 - 12:14am
Long time lurker here. Picked up this beautiful kit a few months back, and have been doing lots of research since. My goal is to build the 109 as she may have looked in her final days. And not only that, but she's going to be a waterline as well.
Jeff Davidson's amazing build of an early 109 has been a big help/inspiration on my build so far. And all the information by other members here have been a huge help.

Sorry ahead of time for such a pic intensive first post.



So far the changes I've managed to get done are replacing the barrels on the 50's and the 20mm. Shimming up the bow and stern to get the subtle "S" curve. I've moved the Depth Charges back to replicate whats seen in another period photo of another boat, to address what the crew may have done after the torpedo incident. Moved the 20mm pedistal back to slightly cover the dead-lights. Slightly changed the angle on the rear 50's tub. And lastly moved the forward torpedo tubes up so that the rear mounts roughly line up with the forward of the cart house.

Still lots of work left, but we're slowly getting there.







EDIT: Hmmmm. Seems I'm not familiar with how to upload photos on this type of forum. Anyone got any hints?

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David Waples

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Post a Reply To This Topic    Reply With Quotes     Edit Message     View Profile of David Waples  Posted on: Oct 5, 2014 - 8:58pm
Coming along nicely. Thanks for sharing your work.
Dave

David Waples

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Jeff D

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Post a Reply To This Topic    Reply With Quotes     Edit Message     View Profile of Jeff D   Send Email To Jeff D Posted on: Oct 6, 2014 - 8:05am
It looks nice US, glad you added the "S" on the sheer. It adds a lot to the graceful lines of the boat. And thanks, I'm glad my site was helpful to you!

You're right, there's an amazing group of PT historians here. I learn something new virtually every day.



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Jeff D

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Post a Reply To This Topic    Reply With Quotes     Edit Message     View Profile of Jeff D   Send Email To Jeff D Posted on: Oct 6, 2014 - 8:23am
By the way, it was Stu Hurley's build that you are probably referring to. I'm not capable of such excellent work, at least not in the physical world!



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Stuart Hurley

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Post a Reply To This Topic    Reply With Quotes     Edit Message     View Profile of Stuart Hurley  Posted on: Oct 6, 2014 - 11:39am
Hi,
Looking forward to watching the build come together. How are you going to tackle the water? My current 195 project is also going to be a waterline.

Best Regards,
Stu.





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Jimmy

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Post a Reply To This Topic    Reply With Quotes     Edit Message   Posted on: Oct 6, 2014 - 5:35pm
May I ask a question about this "S" curve? Where exactly on the model is this S curve off? How is it best corrected?


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  David Waples

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Post a Reply To This Topic    Reply With Quotes     Edit Message     View Profile of David Waples  Posted on: Oct 6, 2014 - 6:56pm
Hi Jimmy,
it's not much of an "S" really. What we're talking about is the the shape of the top of the hull. The hull tapers down at the bow and has a shallow flip up on the stern.

I did this by drawing a line at the bow starting where I wanted it and continued up to a point about half way between the bow and the Chart House. Don't go crazy. It's fairly subtle. I then sanded it down maintaining a nice flowing curve. On the stern about 10 scale feet from the transom I added some Evergreen plastic to add the flip on the tail. I had to remove the trim molded into the top of the hull and add it back in later with some Evergreen plastic. I also gave the stern a slight crown by adding some Evergreen plastic and sanding a slight crown into it. When the hull is attached it forms a slight crown. I'm not there yet but it's a good idea to add some support in the center of the hull . Careful because this can have an affect on how the deck fixtures (Chart House and Day Cabin) fit.

I'm calling on Stu to come to my rescue and show what he did but you can see his work on Jeff's PT-103 web site. Stu has some nice photos that show how he did this. Here's a photo of the actual boat and what I did to replicate it.
 photo IMG_0003_zps2abca264.jpg

 photo 79a61518-acb9-4d39-838d-7a670dadd30a_zps3af96fc6.jpg

 photo Image_zps33c79f70.jpg



David Waples

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Stuart Hurley

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Post a Reply To This Topic    Reply With Quotes     Edit Message     View Profile of Stuart Hurley  Posted on: Oct 7, 2014 - 12:33am
Hi,
Anything you do to the hull causes problems with the fit of the deck and other items.
If you look at my build photos, I just sanded the bow down a little and had to remove the lip under the deck to allow the hull to join. You then have too much overhang so have to reduce the deck edge slightly. Be careful the deck screw doesn't break through the stem due to the reduced height. Dave's method of adding height to the hull edges might be better here.The flip up at the stern is easier as you just have to add some strip to jack the deck up a little. The crown is O.K. at the stern, IMHO, but a little flat at the foredeck. If you jack up the deck at the stern, you need to raise exhaust system by the same amount to preserve the distance between the pushrods and the deck edge.
I tried several methods of introducing crown starting with pillars of sprue glued under the deck. I ended up with propping it up with a cardboard tube (toilet roll) suitably shaped and wedged in. The fit of the charthouse is affected so be careful. It is adviseable to fit strengthening pillars under the deck around the hole for the cabins as you will be constantly breaking the deck joint during the build otherwise. This also helps when glueing the cabins as it removes the flex.

Or you could just leave it alone

Best Regards,
Stu.





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Jimmy

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Post a Reply To This Topic    Reply With Quotes     Edit Message   Posted on: Oct 7, 2014 - 6:21am
Thanks guys.
It certainly does add character to the boat, especially at the bow. I went through my books after posting the question last night and had to take a straight edge out to the side views in order to see the curves. And yes, my first thought was this is going to effect the fit of deck mounted items.

"you can see his work on Jeff's PT-103 web site. Stu has some nice photos that show how he did this"

Can you point me to Jeff's web site and Stu's photos?


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Jeff D

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Post a Reply To This Topic    Reply With Quotes     Edit Message     View Profile of Jeff D   Send Email To Jeff D Posted on: Oct 7, 2014 - 7:13am
Hi Jimmy, my site is here: http://www.pt103.com/

You can see the sheer (where the sides meet the deck) curve in this image: http://www.pt103.com/images/PT_Boat_Elco_103_Class_Hull_Profile_Stitched.jpg

The sheer is parallel with the water line for a short distance at the bow according to an Elco offsets table. The deck and coamings along the chart house, day room cabin trunk, and engine hatch are straight although the sheer curves a bit due to the steady deck camber and the hull narrowing. Then the sheer curves back up.



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