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 Author  Topic: PT 305 RESTORATION PICS
Bob

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Post a Reply To This Topic    Reply With Quotes     Edit Message     View Profile of Bob  Posted on: Sep 11, 2012 - 4:12am
Frank, We tried rolling the dolphinite, but it just didnt work, even thinned out. Instead we found that trowelling it on works best. It goes pretty fast.

Bob

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Frank J Andruss Sr

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Post a Reply To This Topic    Reply With Quotes     Edit Message     View Profile of Frank J Andruss Sr   Send Email To Frank J Andruss Sr Posted on: Sep 11, 2012 - 6:45am
Thanks Bob, I kind of thought you guys might try that method first, before switching to something else. Glad to hear it is going smoothly for you.


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Black Ops

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Post a Reply To This Topic    Reply With Quotes     Edit Message   Posted on: Sep 11, 2012 - 1:07pm
Bob, you and the gang are doing an outstanding job ! ! ! Bravo Zulu


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Bob

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Post a Reply To This Topic    Reply With Quotes     Edit Message     View Profile of Bob  Posted on: Sep 13, 2012 - 5:36pm


Forepeak hatch cutout.

Bob

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RANDY SMITH

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Post a Reply To This Topic    Reply With Quotes     Edit Message     View Profile of RANDY SMITH   Send Email To RANDY SMITH Posted on: Sep 17, 2012 - 5:22pm
PICS OF ENGINE #2, WE DISASSEMBLED IT LAST WEEK CHECKED THE MAINS AND RODS ALL IN GOOD SHAPE. NEXT IS ALLOT CLEANING AND PAINT.





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pappy bj

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Post a Reply To This Topic    Reply With Quotes     Edit Message   Posted on: Oct 4, 2012 - 4:28am
As a machienist, not a canuk, I could not help but notice the use of all philips head wood screws on this restoration project. Try using Robertson (aka square head) screws, way better meathod unit for tightening, way less striped heads........you will like them a lot better..........you wont look back. Cheers, B.J.

B.J.

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  Jerry Gilmartin

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Post a Reply To This Topic    Reply With Quotes     Edit Message     View Profile of Jerry Gilmartin   Send Email To Jerry Gilmartin Posted on: Oct 4, 2012 - 9:48am
Hi Pappy BJ
I noticed that as well, when we redid the deck on PT658 I desired that we use flat head slotted bronze screws just like the original, but we ended up using square head stainless steel screws instead. Mostly because it is very difficult to find a good selection of slotted bronze screws these days. I think the guys preferred using the steel square drives since they are so good and easy to use. Meanwhile, most of the available bronze screws are made in phillips head. Strange. Ultimately, the deck is screwed into the top of the deck beams and then I am pretty sure they will be installing the copper rivets to hold the two layers together. Maybe they used the only bronze screws they could find in that length, since I have no idea where they could obtain square drive bronze screws! Just my 2 cents.

Jerry
PT658 Portland

Jerry Gilmartin

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PeterTareBuilder

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Post a Reply To This Topic    Reply With Quotes     Edit Message     View Profile of PeterTareBuilder  Posted on: Oct 4, 2012 - 11:45am
I worked for a bit with an English wooden boat builder who used slotted screws. He said he prefered them to Phillips or Robertson screws because the wood would swell and creep into the slots and that would help prevent them from backing out when the boat was in use. He also used to allign all the screw heads so that the slots pointed to each other.

Cheers

"Give me a faster PT boat for I'd like to get out of harm's way!"

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Bob

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Post a Reply To This Topic    Reply With Quotes     Edit Message     View Profile of Bob  Posted on: Oct 4, 2012 - 5:53pm
The screws we used are frearson screws. They look like phillips but have a pointed tip. Frearson screws are mainly found as the marine bronze wood screws used in boat building.
I am a cabinet builder and use robertson screws everyday. I am not sure, but I believe that the frearson in silicon bronze may have been the most readily available. Remember, the deck screws are #12's 2 1/2" long, side hull #14 same length and bottom hull #16 same length. These are not screws you can buy at the hardware store. But these are the exact sizes Higgins used.
Try to find a countersink for a #14 woodscrew into hardwood. Cant find it at any hardware store, only on line and even then, hard to find. Then try a #16.
Now lets talk rivets, we tried to find a counterbore to fit, they dont make one. We need an 11/64" shank and a 9/16" bore for the rivet head, no such thing. So we have to do it in a two step method. Thats just drilling the holes. This does not include all the other steps to drive the rivet, set the washer, cut the shank and then form the left over shank material. All of this by the way takes two people, one on each side. And there are only 38,000 rivets, I think that there are 24,000 screws.
This weekend we will have all of the top layer of decking screwed down to the deck ribs with the canvas with dolphinite on both sides in between. We have been experimenting with the rivets, trying to figure out the best procedure. After this weekend we will start an assemby line for the riveting. There is not always an accessible area behind the rivet. This has led to the purchase of offset rivet sets and some custom made tools. Definately not a fun job, but as historically accurate as possible.


















Bob

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David Buck

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Post a Reply To This Topic    Reply With Quotes     Edit Message     View Profile of David Buck   Send Email To David Buck Posted on: Oct 5, 2012 - 2:26am
Hi Bob,
Just a thought have a word to the boys in the metal working area and see if they have any centredrills these are used to start holes in metal on a lath or such to keep the drill that will creat the hole straight, being for metal they will work well in hardwood if driven slowly and are available in various sizes. You will still have to use a two drill system but the centredrill does make life a little easer.

This will work for your screws but I don't know if you need a countresink for the rivet if you require a flat base for them to sit in try Brownells as they have a number of differant types,

D.buck

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