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 Author  Topic: How to clean models
Frank J Andruss Sr

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Post a Reply To This Topic    Reply With Quotes     Edit Message     View Profile of Frank J Andruss Sr   Send Email To Frank J Andruss Sr Posted on: Dec 5, 2011 - 6:44am
Not to mention make sure you use delicate tumble on the dryer...........


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victorkchun

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Post a Reply To This Topic    Reply With Quotes     Edit Message   Posted on: Dec 5, 2011 - 8:24am
Yes, I am talking about old models. Frank's idea of using an air can seems to be a great idea.
Thanks!
Victor

Victor K Chun

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kgretter

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Post a Reply To This Topic    Reply With Quotes     Edit Message   Posted on: Dec 5, 2011 - 8:32am
I wasn't sure about Frank's idea, but it started to click about the fourth time I read it......


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  Jerry Gilmartin

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Post a Reply To This Topic    Reply With Quotes     Edit Message     View Profile of Jerry Gilmartin   Send Email To Jerry Gilmartin Posted on: Dec 5, 2011 - 1:31pm
Yes Frank I am still unclear!. Can you repeat that one more time for me? you used canned air? Could you please repeat your post so I could read it again? Please? Hah Hah. Jerry

Jerry Gilmartin

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Frank J Andruss Sr

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Post a Reply To This Topic    Reply With Quotes     Edit Message     View Profile of Frank J Andruss Sr   Send Email To Frank J Andruss Sr Posted on: Dec 6, 2011 - 10:12am
Funny Guys, LMAO. No pun intended here, you really can used canned air, just make sure you eat plenty of beans...............


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Gary Paulsen

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Post a Reply To This Topic    Reply With Quotes     Edit Message     View Profile of Gary Paulsen   Send Email To Gary Paulsen Posted on: Dec 6, 2011 - 10:29am
We use the canned air on our computer keyboard. The brand we use is Fellowes Duster. Seems to work okay but contains tetrafloroethane is flamable and needs to be used in a well ventelated area.
http://www.fellowes.com/us/en/Products/Pages/product-details.aspx?prod=US-99790&cat=COMPUTER_ACC&subcat=CLEANING_WS_ORG&tercat=
Gary


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  FRANK

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Post a Reply To This Topic    Reply With Quotes     Edit Message     View Profile of FRANK  Posted on: Dec 8, 2011 - 9:54am
Hey guys-

First of all, I have been away from the message board for a long, long time! I thought that I would add my 2 cents worth about cleaning static models.

I have been building classic tall ship models for well over 40 years! I still and always will have a vivid interest in everything relating to PT's.

DUST, pure and simple will destroy a fine ship model over time! The best investment to protect any type of model is a glass case.

I have found that this method works best for me and I agree that many of you will NOT want to try this but trust me, IT WORKS like a dream.

I take my models outside and use Windex and spray the entire model with the stuff. Yep, rigging and all. Soak it really good, then get an empty bottle and fill it with warm tap water and respray the model to remove and residue and crud. For hard to clean areas a fine soft brush dipped into the Windex can be utilized to "swab" the deck so to speak! I

I then let my models "air dry" and go back with Q-tips in and around delicate areas of the model.

One of my clients called me and asked if I would clean one of his models. I asked if he had any Windex and he handed me the bottle. I thought he would have a accident when I proceeded to spray down his Cutty Sark model that took me a year to build. After she air dried, he couldn't believe it was the same model!

If you guys have wood model DON'T use the Windex. Use the Windex ONLY on plastic models. I use MURPHY'S OLI SOAP in a spray bottle. Just spray the entire model down and then repeat with warm tap water to remove the crud. Murph's oil soap doesn't leave behind any residue. When I am restoring old antique ship models, the first thing I always do is clean the model off first then proceed with repairs and re-rigging. This method works for me every time and has never failed to work for me.

I also find that a ladies large "blush brush" that women use to apply make up with is the ideal accessory to keep dust off your models from time to time. The hairs on the brush are very long and very soft for delicate details.

To those of your brave enough to try this method, I'd like to hear from you all! It's good to be back on the message board again!

Frank J. Ryczek, Jr.
Modeler/Friend PT-169 "ZEBRA SNAFU" Base Tulagi

HIGH TIDES ALWAYS!

YOUR FRIEND THROUGH SCALE SHIP MODELING AND PT BOAT HISTORY!

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Frank J Andruss Sr

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Post a Reply To This Topic    Reply With Quotes     Edit Message     View Profile of Frank J Andruss Sr   Send Email To Frank J Andruss Sr Posted on: Dec 8, 2011 - 1:18pm
Awesome Frank, although all of my models are encased in glass, this is a great thing to know, for my PT-109 Model that Stan is restoring. He will be building a case for this model, but it has been sitting for some time in the basement. I know Stan uses brushes to clean the model's, but maybe I will have him try this on the 109. Does that Windex hold true for resin or fiberglass models. I know the 109 model is not plastic as it was a running boat for the water. Thanks Frank for sharing all those years of knowledge............


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  FRANK

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Post a Reply To This Topic    Reply With Quotes     Edit Message     View Profile of FRANK  Posted on: Dec 8, 2011 - 3:05pm
Hi Ya Frank-

Yep, the Windex spray will work very well on fiberflass hulls. Just remember one thing though. If the model is PLASTIC, use the Windex then rinse off with warm tap water sprayed on. If the model is WOOD, DON'T use the WINDEX!! If you want to clean crud off of a old wooden model go with MURPHY'S OIL SOAP in the spray bottle. Don't worry, the oil soap is very mild and will not warp the wood in any way! I've been restoring antique ship models for a very long time and this is my tried and true method!

By all means Frankie, pass this on to my Polish Buddy, Stan! I'll bet ya dollars to donuts this method will raise his eyebrows!

Frank Ryczek, Jr.

HIGH TIDES ALWAYS!

YOUR FRIEND THROUGH SCALE SHIP MODELING AND PT BOAT HISTORY!

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