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Topic: PT 337 update |
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bwross
New Member
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Posted on: Nov 3, 2011 - 3:59pm
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Greetings,
Well, finally have worked through family and work issues and had some time to spend on my PT337 conversion; thought I share with you all.
First, based on the excellent inputs I received previously and finally having acquired the plan set I remodeled the engineroom/ventilator that I had shared earlier. After reviewing the plans I decided it would be easier to just start from scratch.
I still haven't modeled the handles as I'm trying to figure out a way of doing it that will be to scale and yet be durable. Coming soon.
So for your viewing pleasure, below is the boat in its current state. Ive just about finished sanding off all of the overscale deck planking and have started making modifications/corrections to the cabin structures. Additionally, I have fabricated my take on the air scoops that were fitted over the side ports of the chart room.
Since the plan set has the layout plans for the ELCO boat cradle I've started building one so eventually the finished model will rest in the period correct cradle (pictures to follow as I can).
As always, if you see something amiss or not correct please sound off so I can get it fixed.
Best,
Bruce
Bruce Ross
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Drew Cook
TOP BOSS
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Posted on: Nov 3, 2011 - 5:35pm
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Nice work, Bruce...
I'm somewhat curious as to your reason for adding the thicker chines...were the molded chines on the kit hull not to your liking? I had thought they were pretty much to scale as is...?
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bwross
New Member
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Posted on: Nov 3, 2011 - 5:52pm
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Hi Drew,
Looking at pictures of the original boats and studying the plans it struck me that the chine guards stood out quite prominently. The hull has modeled just didn't seem to have the same visual impact.....thus I built them up. I tried to get as close to the plan dimensions but may have went over just a bit.
Thanks for looking.
Bruce
Bruce Ross
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Mark Culp
Advanced Member
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Posted on: Nov 3, 2011 - 6:10pm
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Nice...
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Will Day
TOP BOSS
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Posted on: Nov 3, 2011 - 11:10pm
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Lookin' good.
Will |
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David Waples
TOP BOSS
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Posted on: Nov 4, 2011 - 4:36am
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Coming along nicely Bruce! A couple of observations...
1. I think the railings work best if you make them from annealed brass rod and solder them together. I used the WEM photoetch set as a pattern. I also used TIX solder as it melts at lower temperatures. This would give you the strongest result. You could try to use superglue but it will be more brittle and less forgiving to movement. I think we've talked about this already but thought I would make note of it again.
2. It may be too late but I noticed on the actual boat that the torpedo tube mounts were shaved down somehow. On my model I back filled the mounts with epoxy since the casting is somewhat hollow underneath. If the deck is already attached you could probably fill with plastic somehow.
Keep it coming. I'm enjoying your progress.
Dave
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bwross
New Member
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Posted on: Nov 4, 2011 - 5:16pm
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Hey Dave,
Thanks for the input. Couple of questions if I might; I thought that the handrails on the cabins were square in cross section like the toe boards on the bow. What diameter of brass did you use?
I noticed the tube plates needing to be taken down more, I've been thinking of how to do it with the minumum of work and least chance of damaging surrounding areas.
I have another question for the board in general; looking over the plans it looks like the partition bulkhead just aft of the wheel was taken down at some point....is this correct?
thanks
Bruce
Bruce Ross
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David Waples
TOP BOSS
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Posted on: Nov 4, 2011 - 7:57pm
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I think I used a .028 dia brass rod. It could have been a little smaller than that. Hard to tell now with paint added. All the references I have show the hand rails as round. The brackets for the hand rails on the chart house seem to have either cast or stamped end pieces. Maybe somebody here knows better. But overall they are round rails which would make sense.
Looking at your reference photo it appears that the wood bases remain from the tube brackets. On mine I sanded off all the hardware from the tops of the bases and I went through the plastic. I ended up back filling with epoxy and sanding smooth before adding the WEM photo etch parts to the top. I did this before applying the deck. I think epoxy would serve you well filling where you need to.
That shield around the helm was often times removed. I wouldn't say it is conclusive but it does appear that it was removed on this boat. It was done for a variety of reasons. Mr. Keresey removed it from the 105 boat to try and reduce weight. I've read where others did it to make it easier to move around.
Dave
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Jeff D
Moderator
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Posted on: Nov 6, 2011 - 4:08pm
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Coming along nicely Bruce!
The grab rails on PTs 103-138 were 1" round brass along with brass stanchions. After that they went with 1" x 1 1/4" oak rails with cone shaped teak stanchions. Except for the rails on top of the chart house which fit into the stanchions with the drilled boss for mounting the forward life lines. The port aft rail stanchions had the cone tops cut out to fit the round bar (not shown in the following image). Here's a few views of them:
PTs 314-367 didn't come from Elco fitted with armor.
The chine guard was 4 1/2 x 2. The top tapered 1 to 3 1/2 at the outside.
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Jeff Sherry
Advanced Member
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Posted on: Nov 6, 2011 - 4:50pm
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I'm very impressed by the engine room hatch...wow. Ok, I'm a novice modeler-just finished a 1/72 scale model of my Dad's boat-PT 342 using the Revell PT-109 kit and looking at your hatch...mine looks terrible. Wow, nice job. Care to make another????
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