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 Author  Topic: How 2 lengthen a 1/32 Lindberg PT hull?
PeterTareBuilder

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Post a Reply To This Topic    Reply With Quotes     Edit Message     View Profile of PeterTareBuilder  Posted on: Jul 22, 2011 - 7:48am
Ahoy there mates.

I hope that all of you are coping okay with the heat and humidity. If you are getting a lot of headaches it could be that you are dehydrated as headaches are a sign of dehydration.

I want to lengthen the hull of a 1/32 scale Lindberg PT boat model by 2/4 inch so that the hull and the deck is the proper length for a 1/32 scale model of an 80' Elco boat.

My idea is to make a number of tapered styrene pieces that I can then glue the 3/4 inch additional length pieces to. To make these strips I plan to tack glue strips to the existing transom with the forward edges flush to the outside of the hull. then I'll sand the strips down until their outside edges are flush with the hull. That should give me the proper taper so that the 3/4 inch pieces will lay flat to the outside of the hull after I move the styrene strips inboard the thickness of the hull or the styrene pieces I'm using to lengthen the hull with. This way I do not have to cut the hull and thus I feel that any chance of a leak happening is greatly reduced and that if this addtion should spring a leak in the future only a small volume of the model would flood.

This is a radio-controlled model and I have already rewrked the forward deck and charthouse areas to move that section aft the 3/4 inch needed to get the proper look. However now the rear deck aft of the dayroom is too cramped and the aft hatch and the 20 mm Oerlkon gun are too close to each other and thus look odd.

Have any of you ever legthened the hull of a 1/32 scale Lindberg PT boat that you have radio-cointrolled?

If so, how did you do it?

Thanks and cheers from Peter

"Give me a faster PT boat for I'd like to get out of harm's way!"

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Frank J Andruss Sr

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Post a Reply To This Topic    Reply With Quotes     Edit Message     View Profile of Frank J Andruss Sr   Send Email To Frank J Andruss Sr Posted on: Jul 22, 2011 - 8:14am
Seems like a ton of work, not to mention what type of stress points will you have on the hull. As a static piece, no problem, not so sure about running her in the water. Heck, just buy a 1/20 scale boat and have fun. All kidding aside, I do not know anyone who has done this...............


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PeterTareBuilder

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Post a Reply To This Topic    Reply With Quotes     Edit Message     View Profile of PeterTareBuilder  Posted on: Jul 24, 2011 - 10:43am
Hi there Frank.

A ton of work? I don't think it'd be any more work than correcting the foredeck, or the chartroom, or the bridge area, or the torpedo tube mounts, the .50 gun mounts and guns, the rear engine room deck area and splinter shields...

I really do think that the added 3/4 inch would make the model look much better and perhaps even help prevent that squatting at speed that so many of these Lindberg models do when underway.

Now, if I *REALLY* wanted to do a ton of work on lengthening the hull I'd get some styrene the same thickness as the hull and then cut off the transom and scarf the Lindberg hull to the new addition by using a 1 to 8 ratio and make matching scarfs on the additonal lengths of styrene. That's the ratio used in boat building when scarfing hardwoods. If the hull is 1/16 inch thick then the scarf would be 1/2 inch long. The taper of the scarf would be on the inside of the existing hull and runinside to the outside of the addtion, That way the water would be flowing past the scarf join with the least chance of catching the edge of the join. To make it even stronger I could reinforce that with another sheet of styrene over the scarf on the inside of the hul. That joint would then be the strongest section in the entire model and would stand up to a lot of hard running.

You know, the more I think about this the more i think that is what I might do just for the fun of it. I mean I've spent so much time planning corrections and doing them this far that I might as well spend the bit of extra time on the stern area too.

I'll keep you all posted as to what I end up doing and I'll take images of whatever method I use.

Cheers from Peter

"Give me a faster PT boat for I'd like to get out of harm's way!"

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Jeff D

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Post a Reply To This Topic    Reply With Quotes     Edit Message     View Profile of Jeff D   Send Email To Jeff D Posted on: Jul 24, 2011 - 4:21pm
Hey Peter, good luck with the bodywork. I'm glad you're going through the effort to make it more scale. Maybe you'll inspire me to dig out my old Lindy.

Although not as critical as with an airplane, the center of gravity fore and aft is pretty important. To this end, you might want to arrange the batteries so you can move them fore and aft to adjust the running attitude. After adjusting you can mount them securely.

Since you're going through a lot of hull work, one tip that helped my race boats a LOT was sharp edges on the chines and stern. This lets the water and its weight release from the hull cleanly rather than try to crawl up the sides and stern. After all, a PT should be fast eh? The chine can also help lift the boat if angled down slightly on the bottom. This is part of what the chine guard on a real PT does.

I don't know if you're experienced with the faster R/C boats, but one tip would be to give them power than you think they might need.



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boater dave

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Post a Reply To This Topic    Reply With Quotes     Edit Message     View Profile of boater dave  Posted on: Jul 24, 2011 - 10:36pm
There is so much wrong with the Lindy PT that you might be better off starting with the Italeri model. Or, do like I did and leave the hull as is and just modify the details above the deck. Lots to do there.
Or build a new hull from plans. A friend did that and it came out very nice. It is probably about the same difficulty as modifying the plastic one, but then you can correct all the problems at once!
And the last post is absolutely correct. Keep the transom edge as sharp as possible. Also, don't forget to add the spray rail as it also helps. And build the boat light! Don't use two or three huge can motors. I saw a nice build with three tiny brushless motors and it worked well. I used a single geared 400 for my boat. Run times on a 3000 nimh pack are about 45 minutes of mixed speeds.

Dave

Dave

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Frank J Andruss Sr

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Post a Reply To This Topic    Reply With Quotes     Edit Message     View Profile of Frank J Andruss Sr   Send Email To Frank J Andruss Sr Posted on: Jul 25, 2011 - 1:34am
I can appreciate trying to make the Lindberg Kit better, but lets face it, the boat is a turd from the word go. So much wrong, that when fixed, it still looks like a dressed up turd.

The boat in my opinion should be left in the box and used as display, but if it must be built, do it as it was intended, right from the box with no changes. When on display (if that's what you wish to do) it will look as it did when the Kit came out. I would much prefer to put my time and effort into a scratch boat, or a better Kit on the market, that at least will look like a true PT BOAT when completed. Just my thoughts here guys, I am not trying to beat up anyone who wants to modify the Lindberg Kit......


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boater dave

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Post a Reply To This Topic    Reply With Quotes     Edit Message     View Profile of boater dave  Posted on: Jul 27, 2011 - 10:02pm
Here is my Lindy PT. I put a few pics in an album called 'boater dave'. I agree that the model is not the best, but there is a lot to work with if you don't mind a stand off scale version that is cheap and available.

Dave



Dave

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Frank J Andruss Sr

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Post a Reply To This Topic    Reply With Quotes     Edit Message     View Profile of Frank J Andruss Sr   Send Email To Frank J Andruss Sr Posted on: Jul 28, 2011 - 3:52am
Dave

That's a massive rebuild from the looks of the photo. Looks very nice from what I can see, although once a Lindberg, always a Lindberg. Have you built any other boats, and do you hve any better photos of this build to share.


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TGConnelly

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Post a Reply To This Topic    Reply With Quotes     Edit Message   Posted on: Jul 28, 2011 - 6:15am
Frank ...

Whereas I agree with your sentiments about the Lindberg kit my friend ... I do know that a minimum of effort, it can be built into a "respectable" looking model ... granted, certainly NOT on the level of the newer Dumas 109 kits or the Italeri 596 kit ... but, it can be built into something "respectable" although certainly not museum quality - and what none of the experten out there would consider accurate.

Remember Frank, not everyone can afford a Dumas or an Italeri ... and if a guy has talent, he can turn the Lindberg sow's ear into a silk purse. As Stan did with the Lindberg kit my father originally built OOB for me ... and that transformation was minimum, but, in my opinion, a success.

Hey, you saw it.

Garth


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PeterTareBuilder

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Post a Reply To This Topic    Reply With Quotes     Edit Message     View Profile of PeterTareBuilder  Posted on: Jul 28, 2011 - 8:20am
Ahoy there Garth.

Thanks for your encouragement.

I've had the one Lindberg PT boat for many years now. It is the first one I built and it has the torpedo tubes on it. The second Lindberg PT boat I built had scratch-built roll off torpedoes and racks. I traded that one away. The one I have now that I'm thinking of lengthening the 3/4 inch is my third Lindberg PT boat.

Something to consder about the Lindberg and the Italeri PT boat models is that the Lindberg kit was deigned as a toy whereas the Italeri kit is more of a static model design. The Lindeberg boat appears to have the same hull as their Cris Craft boat. There are a lot of fine details on the Italeri model that can be damaged or even lost during transport and use if the model is built as a radio controlled model. This is especially true if the owner does not have a vehicle to transport the model to the water in. I have to either walk or bicycle to the local pond. The model is transported inside a padded box that sits on a trailer. I'd hate to think of the damage that the Italeri boat could suffer getting to the pond and back.

Also. Sometimes a modeller simply wants to see what improvements they can make to a model whilst using inexpensive parts scrounged from other kits or thazt are scratch-built. I used an old 1/32 scale Revell M-42 Duster kit to build two 40 mm Bofors guns. One gun was used on each of my first two Lindberg models I built. I used the center sections of the outer road wheels for the ends of the depth charges. For the depth charge bodies I used 1/35 scale Tamiya fuel drums.

However, the most important thing in all of these conversions is that I had *FUN* doing them and I have funning running the models.

Cheers from Peter

"Give me a faster PT boat for I'd like to get out of harm's way!"

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