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 Author  Topic: Making water
Frank J Andruss Sr

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Post a Reply To This Topic    Reply With Quotes     Edit Message     View Profile of Frank J Andruss Sr   Send Email To Frank J Andruss Sr Posted on: Oct 20, 2009 - 4:14pm
This question will go out to all of those wonderful model builders on this site. How many different ways is there to make water for a diorama. My latest project will be in honor of Wallace McNesih and PT-374, and will be in 1/35 scale. Water color is important. I have seen products that need no mixing. Just open the can/bottle and pour. Just wondering how many of you guys have worked with making water, and would love to have some good tips...........


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PeterTareBuilder

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Post a Reply To This Topic    Reply With Quotes     Edit Message     View Profile of PeterTareBuilder  Posted on: Oct 20, 2009 - 5:43pm
Hi Frank.

I don't want to sound like I'm nitpicking but it would be *VERY* helpful to know what kind of water you want to model. Is it flat, rough, boat at speed, shallow water, deep water and so on. I ask this because the type of water I am modelling dictates the materials and the technique(s) I use to get the effect I'm after.

Cheers from PeterTareBuilder

"Give me a faster PT boat for I'd like to get out of harm's way!"

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Frank J Andruss Sr

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Post a Reply To This Topic    Reply With Quotes     Edit Message     View Profile of Frank J Andruss Sr   Send Email To Frank J Andruss Sr Posted on: Oct 20, 2009 - 5:58pm
Sorry about that. The boat will be docked in an inlet water way so the water would be still................


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Will Day

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Post a Reply To This Topic    Reply With Quotes     Edit Message     View Profile of Will Day   Send Email To Will Day Posted on: Oct 21, 2009 - 9:27am
Frank: FineScale Modeler has a wealth of how-to info available thru their website.

Will

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TED WALTHER

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Post a Reply To This Topic    Reply With Quotes     Edit Message     View Profile of TED WALTHER   Send Email To TED WALTHER Posted on: Oct 21, 2009 - 11:40am
FRANK;
I have used a few different mediums, but your two best would be liquid resin and fibreglass resin. Both will give "depth" to your water. Of course you must build a barrier around the base of upside down corner molding , line the pieces with aluminum foil, as you will remove them when the "water" Dries. Important: add your color to the resin went mixing.
I will send you something later, discribing this process.
TED


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Blake

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Post a Reply To This Topic    Reply With Quotes     Edit Message     View Profile of Blake   Send Email To Blake Posted on: Oct 21, 2009 - 2:01pm
I'm currently building Italeri's boat in a dockside diorama tribute to all the boats & men of Ron 33. I'll probably tick off the purists, but instead of building a specific boat number as it appeared at a specific date in time. I'm building a specific boat number, but including subtle details found on other boats within the squadron.
Anyway, I talked with a guy who did a dockside diorama & from whom I got the inspiration to do mine. He used a 2 part resin furniture coating to simulate his water(I can't remember the brand off the top of my head). He cut his boat down to be a waterline kit, however I'm leaving mine full hulled, but still only pouring a .25 resin water depth(I can explain how if anyone's interested). Instead of coloring the resin, he painted the base under the resin in various greens & blacks. I'm going a step further & painting the shadows around the base of the pilings & under the dock & boat. As I said, he poured only about a .25 thickness of resin, but with the color under it, it appears to be scale feet thick. I was very impressed with the result! Nice thing is that if you watch the Sunday paper, or Hobby Lobby's web site you can get a 40% off any one item coupon which allows you to buy more than enough product for about $15. if I remember right.
Just another idea on modeling still water.
I'd really love to model the water as that beautiful aqua marine/turquoise color found in parts of the Pacific, but just can't find any photo reference that it ever existed around Philippine docks. Bummer, but I'll just have to live with murky greens!
Blake

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Frank J Andruss Sr

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Post a Reply To This Topic    Reply With Quotes     Edit Message     View Profile of Frank J Andruss Sr   Send Email To Frank J Andruss Sr Posted on: Oct 21, 2009 - 4:52pm
Hello Guys

Thanks so far for the information on maiking water. I came across several sites that make the water as easy as pouting it from the jar. No mixing or anything. I am sure everyone has their own way of doing the water. Trying to simulate the wonderful colors of the Pacific water is very difficult, and for that reason, we may do the murky green color as well. I am sure Alex will be running several tests well before the boat ever hits the water. No room for error here. Would love to see some photos if anyone has any of their work or water descriptions...................


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PeterTareBuilder

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Post a Reply To This Topic    Reply With Quotes     Edit Message     View Profile of PeterTareBuilder  Posted on: Oct 21, 2009 - 6:18pm
Hi Frank.

If you ever decide to use polyester resin (fiberglass resin) for anything plastic be aware, be *VERY* aware that it can get *EXTREMELY* hot if mixed in a small container. When setting it can generate enough heat to melt styrene. Many modellers coat their models with a thin layer of clear epoxy resin to protect it from the heat of setting polyester resin. It also helps to have several thin pours rather than one deep pour. I like the two part clear Envirotex epoxy resin. Pouring thin coats allows you to add things like fishes to the water too.

One other thing, epoxy resins are at least as carcinogenic as polyester resins but don't smell nearly as bad. Therefore many people do not use proper protection when working with epoxy resin. I recommend using a *GOOD* respirator when working with these quantities of resin.

Cheers from Peter

"Give me a faster PT boat for I'd like to get out of harm's way!"

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Frank J Andruss Sr

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Post a Reply To This Topic    Reply With Quotes     Edit Message     View Profile of Frank J Andruss Sr   Send Email To Frank J Andruss Sr Posted on: Oct 21, 2009 - 7:44pm
Pete

Thanks very much for the heads up. This is why I dont get involved with building these things. I leave that up to guys like you and all the other wonderful builders on this site. That is why my models for the Exhibit are nothing less then perfect.............


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PeterTareBuilder

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Post a Reply To This Topic    Reply With Quotes     Edit Message     View Profile of PeterTareBuilder  Posted on: Oct 22, 2009 - 8:20pm
Ahoy there Frank.

One method that some people like to use when making water is to use clear acrylic or Plexiglas sheets. They either cut the boat hull down or they cut out an area of the Plexiglas sheet for the hull to sit into. With an airbrush you can lightly fog the underside of the Plexiglas. Some modelers use more than one layer of Plexiglas to give a different effect. Low ripples can be added to the surface either with resin -- even five minute epoxy is good - or some clear silicone sealant.

BTW, most epoxy resins cure very slowly so modelers prefer polyester resin if they are making larger waves or whitecaps and spume.

I'd be interested in seeing links to sites where modeling water is as easy as pouring it out of a jar.

Cheers from Peter

"Give me a faster PT boat for I'd like to get out of harm's way!"

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